August 11 Day 72 Lewiston NY 60 miles 5:39

A marvelous day altogether. We started out with several miles of rail-trail bike path through forest and farm. At Ft. Erie, there was a War of 1812 re-enactment going on. US troops attacked British troops defending the fort. The vastly outnumbered defenders negotiated a withdrawal. We learned from the re-enactors at lunch that Britain played up for many years the threat that the US would seize Canada as a British tool for controlling Canada. Did you know that one of the demands the US made on Britain following the Civil War was to give Canada to the US as reparations for support the British gave the South during the Civil War?

Here's another chapter of American history that may not have been covered in your high school text: the Battle of Ridgeway. In April, 1866, Irish-American supporters of Irish independence from Britain invaded Ontario from Ft. Erie to strike a blow for Irish independence. The Fenians, as they were known, defeated the British troops sent to repel the invaders. The Fenians then withdrew to Buffalo. There was a similar invasion in 1870 from Vermont.

We pedaled along the Niagara River toward the falls. The views were superb. Once we reached the falls, we had to dismount and walk through the crowds. What a variety of people! For those of us who have lived pretty much in isolation for two months, it was overwhelming. I greeted a Japanese man wearing a Cal t-shirt with a hearty "Go Bears". He was clearly clueless, but I think his wife eventually got the idea.

Getting back to the US was a challenge. Bicycles are not allowed on the Whirlpool Bridge. We intended to take the Queenton-Lewiston Bridge. Construction kpt us from taking the route described on our map. We pedaled into a prohibited area to find someone who could explain how to get onto the bridge. She directed us to the temporary route. Good thing it's temporary because it involves pedaling across five lanes of traffic. We clung to the right edge of the bridge until we got across. Now what? There were lanes for autos/RVs, backed up, and a lane for commercial trucks, empty. Michele always finds a way to rationalize her own self-interest. She shouted, "Take the truck lane - they'll want us out of here." At the Immigration post for the truck lane, the officer yelled something about how he wouldn't deal with us. Roy and Michele seized upon this as permission to proceed. The Immigration officer went nuts. I explained that he meant we had to go back to the auto line. In the end, he processed us anyway just to get rid of us while the commercial trucks backed up behind us blew their horns and shouted.

I have been taking my immunity to flat tires as proof of my moral superiority over Michele and Roy and further evidence of God's justice on earth. Regrettably, divine intervention ceased just as we rolled down into Lewiston. We pulled into the first driveway. Two ladies were sitting on the porch. They turned out to be Doris and her 92-year-old mother, having their nightly manhattans. Dois gave us water and counseled us on motels. It turned out that Lewiston is having it's annual art fair - all the motels for some ditance are booked. Michele wheedled permission to camp in Doris' back yard. (Photos to come